From the fortress, you can gaze down upon the 19th-century Old Town, the much more ancient river walls of the Mtkvari River and the gleaming new installations in Rike Park. Descend from the 4th century straight into the 21st at Rike Park, a feat of modern urban planning that is shaped like the map of Georgia and has picnic areas, a climbing maze, a giant grand piano and a choreographed musical fountain. Rike Park is connected to Old Tbilisi by the bow-shaped Bridge of Peace: another Italian-designed marvel featuring curved steel, a glass canopy top and, at night, a light show of 1, twinkling LEDs.
A short walk from Rike Park sits the Abanotubani district, a collection of brick bathhouses with distinctive dome-shaped roofs that for centuries have been a pilgrimage site for Georgians in need of a restorative sulfuric dip. The baths offer gender-segregated communal pools as well as private rooms with steaming bathtubs; for a handful of extra lari, bathers can also get a professional scrub-down and massage.
The linchpin of Georgian culture is the supra, or festive meal. The Georgian kitchen is heavily seasonal and features a dizzying intermarriage of Eastern and Western flavors, anchored by thick khinkali soup dumplings, plump with rich broth; cheesy flatbreads scorched in clay ovens; and a harmony of sweet and sour flavors culled from the freshest fruits and herbs. For a taste of true Georgian tradition, descend the curving iron staircase to the dining room at Barbarestan , a family-owned gem housed in an old brick meat cellar with aging hooks still visible in the ceiling. Dinner for two, with wine, lari.
Perhaps because of the decadence of its dinners, Georgians start their days late, and Tbilisi has no real breakfast culture to speak of. Khachapuri, from 7. The fairest of them all might be the home housing Gallery 27 , an attic souvenir shop and textile gallery selling handmade Georgian crafts. There is perhaps no better place to experience the modern, creative pride that marks post-Soviet Tbilisi than its art cafes. Each of these bistros is distinct, but all feature vintage design, quality food and a delightful blurring of gallery and gathering place.
Its menu offers fresh vegetarian spins on Georgian classics, served in a colorful room of stucco walls and Persian-inspired paintings lunch for two, lari. The Tbilisi TV Tower, a Soviet-era eyesore hovering over the city on Mount Mtasminda, hides something much more appealing: Mtasminda Park , a landscaped amusement park and urban playground that is accessible by a funicular that goes straight up the mountain.
For those shorter on time, a visit to Vino Underground tasting from 25 lari or Vintages will quench your palate. The result was Bina N37 , where guests reach their dinner after buzzing the intercom of Mr. Phulay Bay.
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